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Undercover SS20


06.04.2020 - “No more street style”

Undercover SS20

Raise your hats to Jun Takahashi. At a time when everyone is merely showing off their “drip” for clout, the Kiryu-born menswear virtuoso slaps a fat reminder into our collective face that menswear is still fashion in its native sense. In June 2019, he surprised the fashion world with a monochromatic fashion show, offering classic tailoring pieces like suits, coats, jackets or shirts, all with a distinctive twist on them. Between Cindy Sherman photographies and stylized textile graphics (did anyone envision Takahashi featuring Nosferatu?), Undrecover’s SS20 collection finds itself at no intersection, it is modern menswear in its purest form, through the lens of a designer that continues to demonstrate his seemingly endless repertoire.

“When I think about what I want to wear, it was black, but I also wanted to get rid of extra elements. Just serenity; calm. All the tailoring is very simple.” (Jun Takahashi)

The manner in which he rediscovers the very foundation of menswear (and pretty much fashion as a whole), but at the same time keeps his inherent drive towards change going, is truly impressive. Fittingly, his Paris Fashion Week show was set to the theme of the Wong Kar-Wai film “2046”, a classic romantic drama that also plays with a lot of science fiction elements. The plot? Rediscovering something that was lost. You get the drift. Undercover SS20 is minimalistic, yet no piece is the same. It is straightforward, yet never boring. Every single piece tells its own story, all adding up to a large, dark, and beautiful work of art. Did we mention that “2046” has multiple story arches?

The fashion world has been waiting for this, albeit without really knowing what they were waiting for. Takahashi’s last few shows were heavy on graphics and almost ritualistic streetwear elements that you won’t find in a collection like this one. This one is new, this one is fresh, even as it goes back to things we regard as staples of the fashion industry. It is a true highlight after years of fashion designers trying too much to be “contemporary”, eventually ending in somewhat of a loop that Jun Takahashi now offers an exit from. His SS20 collection will be available soon at HNTA and until then, take a look at the fits from his show and stay tuned.

“No more street style” (Jun Takahashi)