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13 Item(s)

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Undercover by Jun Takahashi

Over 25 years continued excellence. Over 25 years of setting the bar for meshing street with fashion, all with a touch of Tokyo underground. Few labels even survive nearly three decades years, let alone three decades of sustained success. Undercover by Jun Takahashi is one of the true cult labels of this planet and probably the epitome of Japanese fashion in the 21st century. Looking back on all these years feels like looking into an endless hourglass filled with chaos, humour, frailty and intention. Undercover pieces are as ambiguous as they are harmonious and while Takahashi draws inspiration from all over the place, leading to collection that are none alike, they all still carry this distinct feel, this distinct feel of Undercover.

Nowhere - the early days of Undercover

Jun Takahashi, mentored by Rei Kawakubo, was still attending Tokyo's Bunka Fashion College when he founded Undercover. Without much opportunity to showcase his garments, though, it took until he linked up with all-around streetwear legend Nigo to found Nowhere, a store that gave Takahashi the chance to showcase his talent to a broader audience. The store became the incubator for the wave of Japanese fashion designers that are Takahashi, Takahiro Miyashita and Junya Watanabe, helping this youth culture and punk inspired generation of designers to fame. Punk and Undercover often go in one sentence, but looking back at Takahashi’s catalogue, it was really only his early work that carries a true punk influence. As Undercover grew, his collections became more and more refined, touching more on high fashion subjects than the Tokyo underground.

Undercover in the 21st century

Today, Undercover is more than just a household name. The label is one of the most influential of this century and Jun Takahashi’s shows carry a lot of weight on the seasonal calendar. Apart from his seasonal work, Jun Takahashi has equally become a collaboration-heavyweight. Undercover x Nike is a mainstay in the sneaker world, but also his collaborations with the likes of Supreme, Vans or Uniqlo are hard to be forgotten. The first pure Paris menswear show by Undercover only took place in 2018 and, dubbed “The New Warriors”, it was a sight of things to come. Even after three decades, Jun Takahashi isn’t slowing down. Undercover is still the defining image of Harajuku-streetwear and will be for years to come. The ride isn’t over, and word to god, it shouldn’t be over, ever.